NRT to ALB

After a month in Tokyo, I arrived back in Albany late Saturday night.  It took an exhausting amount of time: over 20 hours of travel door to door.  Reflecting on my experience, I can honestly say I will never be the same.  I am so thankful to have spent time in such a dynamic, vital culture, and I know my experiences there will enhance my perspective as a painter, professor and person.

For now, sayonara.

Japanese Food

I've had a number of questions about my typical meals in Japan.  Throughout the month, I experimented a lot with food.  But, I have to be honest, I did have 'western style' food to balance everything out.  There was a supermarket close by my apartment that had a mixture of Japanese style and western style food.  So, typically I would have Japanese food and then fix something at home, every other day (like peanut butter and jelly).  I know, not very glamorous, but I had to do it to cut down on costs and break up the monotony of having the same thing.  I did take a few pictures at a conveyer belt sushi place for lunch to give an idea of a typical lunch.  Above, the sushi chef prepares the dishes to be placed on the conveyer belt.  You can then take anything that looks good.  You are charged at the end of the meal, based upon how many dishes you have. 

The next few images are just examples of dishes available as they were coming around on the conveyer belt.

I'm not sure what any of this is, but can guarantee it is some sort of raw fish.

On this particular day, I had a set dish which consisted of miso soup, two bowls of rice with fish on top.  One was raw tuna and the other was a mystery, that I think was also another kind of fish, with salmon roe (fish eggs) on top.  This kind of set dish can also be ordered in lieu of the conveyer belt sushi.

I also took this picture at my last official sit-down dinner in Tokyo.  After ordering a sampler set dish of sushi, this came out along with the rest of the sushi on my plate.  It is baby octopus, that I think was boiled.  I, of course, had to try it and surprisingly it wasn't bad.  Not too different in texture and taste from calamari. 

Signs

I've come along a number of signs in English that make absolutely no sense and it is extremely fascinating to me.  

These two pictures where of signs in a bathroom in a store.  I think this first one is supposed to prompt you to knock on the door prior to entering.

And this second one, I think, is supposed to prompt you to 'celebrate' washing your hands or something.

Even though this isn't a sign, I had to put this picture up of men sleeping on the subway.  The two guys on the left didn't know one another at all, as at the next stop one got off without saying a word.

Imperial Palace Gardens and Kappabashi-dori

Today I went to two areas that I've already been to, but realized that I missed some attractions in each area.  The Imperial Palace Gardens and Kappabashi-dori in Asakusa.  First, was the Imperial Palace Gardens, which is the only area of the palace open to the public.  Shown here is the main gate to enter the gardens.

Overall, the gardens where very nice and seemed like a great reprieve from the urban surroundings.  This was a large courtyard in one of the main sections of the gardens from a observation point.

Moving on to Kappabashi-dori couldn't be any different.  This main thoroughfare in the old Edo-style Asakusa neighborhood is where they sell a lot of kitchenware items for major restaurants, including life-size pieces of sushi and other food made from rubber.  The samplings of food are used to display in restaurant windows to show what kind of food they have to offer.     

At the end of my journey, I ran across this small block and couldn't help but wonder if people actually live in these small buildings?

New Work

The past couple of days I've been trying to get some more work in on my paintings and drawings.  Pictured above is a piece that I started a couple of weeks ago.  It is moving along, but still has a ways to go.  

I've also started up on a new drawing (pictured above) that is about 12" x 12" square.  I'm not very far into this one yet, so it still has a lot of work left.  But, I'm excited about the space in the piece and the overall composition possibilities.

On another note, while in Kyoto I purchased a woodblock print by Ando Hiroshige.  This is an actual, real print that was a second edition print by Hiroshige- his originals can go for $50,000.  It was more than likely printed by someone else, but still crafted by Hiroshige.  I checked to make sure this was authentic before I bought it and not just an inkjet print or something equivalent.  I'm pretty excited by this, because he is one of the many reasons I wanted to visit Japan and I've been really inspired by his work.    

Ueno Park and Nakamachi-Dori

Went to see a temporary exhibition on Corot, the French landscape painter, today at the Museum of Western Art in Tokyo.  Sounds kind of funny, being in Tokyo, but I couldn't pass it up.  The exhibition focused on over 100 of his paintings, a large amount of the work came from the Louvre, in Paris, which holds a majority of Corot pieces.  It turned out to be a great show, but I couldn't take any pictures.  So, I'm posting about my walk home through Ueno Park and back to the subway home.  The above pictures are reminiscent of the torii in Fushimi-inari, Kyoto.  But, in fact they are in Tokyo. 

The light was really great at this time of day, creating some great passages of light and shadow.  This is the walkway to Gojo-jinja Shrine inside Ueno Park. 

Gojo-jinja Shrine, I arrived too late in the day and it was closed.  Still interesting to see.

The center attraction of this area of the park is Benten-do Temple, which is dedicated to Benzaiten, the Buddhist goddess of the arts, wisdom, the sea and the protector of children.  The location of this temple is really interesting because it is basically an island in the middle of a large pond, with walkways to get to the temple.    

Picture of the pond and the city in the background.

Walking back to the subway, I had to cross the street and was just documenting my travels.

I then ran into this great street- Nakamachi-dori.  Full of people out on there normal evening stroll home from work or picking up dinner or just plain shopping.  This narrow walkway had anything and everything for sale- clothes, souvenir trinkets and food.

I couldn't resist taking a picture of these vending machines.  I mean, couldn't they just get by with one, instead of ten?  Hard to see in this picture, because of the poll, but these go all the way down the block.

The best part of my walk was this.  No even really sure what these are.  Looks like small fish or maybe even worms.  These were laid out on styrofoam plates on a large platform with all kinds of weird looking other 'food' for sale.

These, I know are definitely small fish.  A stall a few down from this one was selling pig's feet out of a cardboard box.  I opted to not take a picture of the pig's feet, but this gives you the idea of the veritable smorgasbord of 'food' for sale.  Imagine walking home from work and seeing this to pick up for dinner-  "Oh, don't mind if I do.  I'll take a pound of the small fish and two pig's feet."

Shinkansen 'Bullet' Train

I thought I'd post this video taken on the shinkansen 'bullet' train between Tokyo and Kyoto.  I think it really gives a sense of the speed and the changing landscape in Japan.  From tightly compact buildings in urban Tokyo to the rolling rice patty fields and mountains of rural Japan, there is a considerable amount of variety along the way.  I recently read that the average speed of the shinkansen is 188 miles per hour, with a world record speed at 361 miles per hour.  In addition, there have been zero passenger fatalities due to derailments or collisions in the entire 40 year operation and 6 billion passenger history of the shinkansen.  They are also extremely punctual, with an average delay of only 36 seconds, pulling up to the stop with only a couple of minutes for passengers to exit and enter and then they are off.

Kyoto - Day Three

I decided to stay in Kyoto for just one more day, so that I could get back to Tokyo to allow for more time to focus on painting and drawing.  I booked my return ticket for the afternoon to allow one more day to visit some sights.  I went to the Fushimi-Inari Taisha, because of its visual presence in some of my guidebooks.  Because I ended up enjoying this sight so much and the length of time I spent there, it was all I could fit in my day before catching the train back to Tokyo.  The above picture is the entryway to the shrine.

This shrine has an interesting, albeit strange backstory, that I will try to paraphrase here:  

It was originally dedicated to the gods of rice and sake by the Hata family in the 8th Century.  As the role of agriculture diminished, deities were enrolled to ensure prosperity in business.  

The entire complex consists of five shrines sprawled across wooded slopes of Inari-yama.  A pathway wanders nearly 3 miles up a mountain lined with hundreds of red torii (see the following pictures).  There are also dozens of foxes, which is considered the messenger of Inari, the god of cereal grains.  The Japanese traditionally view the fox as sacred and somewhat mysterious, capable of 'possessing' humans- the favored point of entry is through the fingernails.  The key often seen in the mouth of the fox is for the rice granary.

Some of the many rows of torii winding up the mountainside.  Absolutely beautiful presence against all of the green of the forest surrounding the shrine.  These torii can actually still be bought today by a person successful at business, who often donates the torii in gratitude.

I was fortunate enough to see one being installed during my visit.  Pretty basic way of being put together, but it looks heavy.

A row of torii alongside a waterfall, made it not only visually compelling, but also the sound created more of an interesting feeling during the long walk.

Another fox, a little more close-up than the last one.  They also wear these strange red bibs for some reason.

The rest of the following pictures are all torii leading up the mountain side.  The entire walk took about two hours, but was a very rewarding experience.

I believe the kanji characters on the side of each torii details who bought it and the date it was installed.

Kyoto - Day Two

Starting out Day Two in Kyoto, I had intended to do a couple of drawings of the city, but it was pouring down rain.  So, I decided to visit a few sights, which I do feel over the past couple of weeks has turned into less sightseeing and more research for my work.  I've been getting a lot of ideas that I feel can be brought into my paintings and drawings, once I return.  I went to a series of sights in Northwestern Kyoto, about a 20-30 minute bus ride from the main Kyoto train station.  Pictured is Kinkaku-Ji, a very famous Zen Golden Temple, covered in gold-foil.  

I love that reflection in the water, I felt like I couldn't take enough pictures of this beautiful sight.

A close up view of the temple, near the temple gardens.

This was on a pathway away from the temple, which took me through the gardens, everyone was trying to get their coins in the bowl-shaped rock in the center.  I wonder how much money is actually on the ground there?

A tea ceremony room, near the temple gates.  Everything was in Japanese, so this was all I could gather about this from a nearby guide speaking to a larger group of people.

On to the next sight, Ryoan-Ji, by far my favorite temple in Kyoto and possibly my favorite in all of Japan.  These were the stairs leading to the main building of Ryoan-Ji.  

Which brought me to this, a garden arranged in the kare-sansui (dry-landscape) style.  A small collection of 15 rocks, adrift in a sea of sand and small rocks, enclosed in an earthen wall.  This is the first Zen rock garden, said to be laid out by Saomi, a painter and gardener who died in 1525.  This was an absolutely amazing experience to sit here and just think or let my mind wander.  I know it doesn't look like much, but when you are there it really is a moving experience and very meditative.

This large rock, engraved with Japanese characters was on the grounds of Ninna-ji, my next site.  I only walked around a small portion of this sight and it didn't seem like anyone else was around and I was a little unsure whether or not it was open.  So, I moved on.

These were the gardens that held Myoshin-ji, a Zen temple complex consisting of 40 temples dating back to the 14 century and Taizo-in, a garden in the southwestern corner of the grounds.  The stone path in the right hand side of the picture led through the entire complex, but it didn't seem like anything was open to view from the inside.

Another one of the temples that made up the Myoshin-ji temple grounds.

On to the following sight, the Bamboo Garden Path, which was located in an area by the name of Arashiyama- about a 10 minute ride west of the Myoshin-ji grounds.  The path led from the nearest street back for about a 10 minute walk and was completely full of bamboo trees.  It was all I could see around me while walking on this path, which was a great experience.  It became very moving, with the rain falling and the light being so low, late in the day.

The bamboo trees created a sort of canopy enveloping the pathway overhead.  

There were quite a few people on the path, but I was lucky enough to time out my photos when no one was around.

Towards the end of the path these young men in traditional clothing were taking people back to the beginning of the path near the road via rickshaw.  A great photo opportunity for me. 

I'm not sure what the name of this is, but it was near the bamboo groves, at the end of the path.  Very peaceful, little walkway in the middle of this small patch of grass.

After another 30 minute bus ride back towards my ryokan, I had one more stop on my list because it was only two blocks from where I was staying.  I thought best to go see it now, before I run out of time.  Pictured above is Nishi Hongan-ji, built in 1591 as the headquarters of Jodo Shin-shu school of Buddhism.  The temple contained 5 buildings total, featuring some of the best examples of architecture and artistic achievement of the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1600).

The long walkway up to the main entryway of the temple grounds.

The main entryway of the temple grounds, a very beautifully and ornate structure made from wood.

The main doorway of the temple grounds, which was really impressive.  You can see the detailed craftsmanship in the top section of the wood- Incredible.

This is Daisho-in Hall, the only structure currently available to view of the entire complex until 2010, because of restoration.

After this final temple it was nearing six in the evening and I had been out since about nine in the morning.  I was beyond tired and ready for a little break from temples.  Turning around from the temple complex was this gate, a short two block walk to my ryokan from here.  It turned out to be a great day, full of some great sights and ideas for my work.  I feel I definitely did my best to see all I could and experience all that I could while visiting each sight.  It is said that there are more than 1,600 Buddhist temples and over 400 Shinto shrines in Kyoto, more than can be seen in a few years, I'm sure.     

Kyoto Afternoon Walk

After arriving in Kyoto via bullet train from Tokyo, I checked into my ryokan and immediately decided my agenda for the day.  There was a suggested walking itinerary in one of my guidebooks that covered a lot of sights in about a half-day, which was about the exact time I wanted to spend.  Since I traveled from Tokyo, it was about 2 in the afternoon.  After realizing that there weren't many subway options, the bus seemed the way to get around.  I figured out the bus system with a couple of maps and my trusty compass.  This was the beginning of the walk, along Higashioji-dori, after getting off the bus.

After the walk uphill, this is what it finally led to: Kiyomizu-dera, an ancient temple first built in 798, but reconstructed in 1633.  These buildings are famous landmarks and are part of an affiliated branch of Buddhism, called Hosso.

These were some pictures inside the large complex, which twisted back into the hillside, revealing more and more structures.

The pagoda, which could be seen as far away as the beginning of the walk down the hillside.

Looking back over the complex from the walkway that I came up.  You can see the people vanishing back into the distance and just barely make out the rest of the city below, along with the mountains.

These are wooden tablets, that can be purchased and then written on- with a wish or desire for happiness or luck.  They are then supposed to be presented during the prayer service by the monks (don't know when this happens).

School children from all over Japan are always around the shrines and temples.  Sort of similar to visiting the state capital or nation capital.  It makes a lot of sense why they are there, but it took me a while to catch on.  

The view overlooking the grounds back to the city below.

A stone statue on the grounds of the complex.

On to the next sight, after a lengthy walk through side streets and gardens: Yasaka Pagoda.  Really just a quick stop for pictures and viewing the pagoda.

This led to Ninen-zaka, a quaint little street, lined with historic houses, shops and teahouses.  A pleasant walk, with very little people out.  After some window shopping and not paying attention to anything at all, I turned around and saw these three lovely ladies walking down the block...

Actual Geisha, which were nice enough to pose with me for a picture.  I really couldn't pass this up, as there are as little as around 100 in Kyoto.  In one of my guidebooks, it did say that this street was the most likely place to run into them.  I just didn't think that I would actually see some and that they would be comfortable enough to pose for pictures.  

After another lengthy walk, this led to Nanzen-ji.  I actually arrived too late and it was closed.  I realized that the sights on the last quarter of my walk would probably be closed, because I had started out a little later in the afternoon.  I decided to end my day here, the walk total ended up being about 5 hours.  Besides being incredibly tired, it started to rain and I felt it was a good full first day in Kyoto.

Kyoto

I am currently making my one trip outside of Tokyo, which is going to Kyoto.  I've heard from many sources that if you go one place in Japan, it should be Kyoto.  I feel a little unfamiliar with Kyoto after preparing so much to be staying in Tokyo.  But, I felt it was worth a couple of days to visit another city and explore a little more of Japan, especially while I have the opportunity of being here.  I was very excited to also take the famed "Bullet train" from Tokyo to Kyoto.  Aptly named, this was surely the fastest train I've ever ridden on.   Racing across the landscape in the shinkansen, I was able to get a quick grasp of the extreme scale of Tokyo.

Another picture taken on the way through Tokyo, while riding the train.  I think this was taken as we were moving from central to south Tokyo.

This was still in Tokyo, but near Yokohama, which almost bleeds through into one another.  Smaller buildings are prominent, but still compactly close together.

About an hour outside of the 'suburbs' of Tokyo and Yokohama, we came close to the sea.  A welcomed site for me, having not left the city since I've arrived.

This led into mountains, which were beautiful to see and probably don't quite resonate in this photo.

Which eventually led to rice patty fields and farmers working.  It had an extremely idealistic feeling to it all, but very fascinating to see.

The brand new train station at Kyoto was very nice.  This grand, double-decker hallway was near the tourist information center.  A very impressive sight, just stepping off the train.

The street where I am staying at the ryokan in Kyoto.  I've noticed that it is not as built up as Tokyo, which makes sense for its smaller population- 1.47 million.  That is still a fairly large city by American standards, but the low-level buildings make it feel like a much smaller city.

I found this sign very amusing, posted inside my door to my room, which states "When emergency cover your mouth with your handkerchief".  I didn't know that I was supposed to have a handkerchief with me while staying at this ryokan.

This is the small, but clean and affordable Japanese-style room where I am staying.  The very convivial ryokan is conveniently located near central Kyoto and the train station.  More on Kyoto and my visit in a later post.

Looking East Over Shinjuku

After my last visit to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observation deck, I needed to make another trip there to take more pictures.  The first time I went up the north tower and there was a cafe blocking the east view.  So, this time I went up the south tower and was able to get the views that I was hoping for looking east. 

  

From this vantage point looking east, you can definitely see more of the major large skyscrapers of the Tokyo area.  But, you can also see a little farther beyond this from this view. (as pictured above)

I took a photograph similar to this one during my last visit.  But, it is still really impressive to see the city from here.  It is hard to tell where it ends at the horizon line.

Shibuya Night

This is a very short video of Shibuya Crossing at night.  It seems a little hectic, mainly because it is dark and the lights on the buildings get a little blurry.  I almost ran into people a couple of times because I wasn't paying attention, but luckily made it across safely.

Shibuya at Night

I really enjoyed going to Shibuya so much that I kept thinking how great it would look at night.  The following pictures were all taken recently on a Tuesday night.  It was very busy, with a lot of people going out to dinner or shopping. 

Shibuya Crossing

This is Shibuya Crossing, a very well known crosswalk featured in movies and famous photographs of Tokyo.  It seemed to be a typical Monday afternoon, still very busy in my opinion.  Imagine what this would look like on a Friday night.

Shibuya & Akihabara

Today I ventured into Shibuya, which was a very busy shopping area, and Akihabara, considered "Electric City" in Tokyo.  Shibuya was my first stop and kind of reminded me of Shinjuku for a couple of reasons.  It had a similar feel, with a lot of over-stimulating visuals and sounds.  It was also packed with stores and shops in a small area.  But, the biggest similarity was all of the people walking around.

Shibuya has a very famous crosswalk- Shibuya Crossing.  It is constantly flooded with people.  Just as a reminder this was a Monday afternoon.  I have no idea what all of these people were up to or what jobs they have that let them walk around and do nothing.

I did feel that this area had a little more of a contemporary feel to it than Shinjuku.  The architecture looked a little newer, along with the technology of the lights and videos displayed on and inside the buildings. 

I love all the colors of the signs and sounds of shopkeepers yelling, along with music blaring and video screens playing random commercials, culminating in complete over-stimulation.

It was just amazing to me how many people were out on a Monday afternoon.  I know this is a huge city, but I kept trying to figure out why they were all there.

On to Akihabara, which has been coined "Electric City".  This is more for the electronics sold at multiple stores around the area.  I haven't really been too pressed to explore this area, but it turned out to be pretty interesting.  

This was around the corner from the train station and seemed to be a huge row of street-facing shops selling anything and everything related to electronic devices that could be found in this area- including computers, cameras, video game consoles and televisions.  

You could also buy everything to make your own electronic device or replace a part broken in your current device, such as these wire casings.

Random selection of light bulbs, all sizes and colors.

And more random wires and miscellaneous electronic related items.

Aoyama

Today I went to an area by the name of Aoyama, which was near Harajuku (a very fashionable area I visited last week).  These two neighborhoods blend together seamlessly, yet do have a slightly different vibe from one another.  Aoyama is a little more laid back, while equally as stylish.  While Harajuku is a little more upbeat and overrun with tourists.  The above picture was taken while walking in nearby Harjuku to get to Aoyama.  This is, apparently, where someone lives with their front porch also acting as a driveway.  Also, look at the bike in the background for reference on how small that car actually is.

I couldn't resist taking this picture, as it reminded me of the outfit worn by the young man in the post from yesterday.  So, this is the new up-to-the-minute fashionable outfit I should be wearing?  Imagine me walking into class to teach in this.

 

This was the final block walking from Harajuku into Aoyama.  A mass of people crowded together along this narrow block, filled with shops and boutiques.  It took a while to wade through all of this and it wasn't even that long.

Along with the mass of people, part of what held me up along the way was this.  I'm not even sure what it is called, but I saw a long line of local Japanese waiting to order and it caught my eye.  I've figured out pretty quickly that if the Japanese are eating it, then it's a safe bet that I should at least try it.  It is basically a soft crepe; filled with ice cream, whipped cream, chocolate sauce and strawberries.  I have to admit, this was a true treat for me, after eating nameless and unknown food throughout almost the past two weeks. 

Finally in Aoyama, I realized how incredible the architecture was along the walk.  This was a building whose facade was made of concrete, but you could see through the holes to multiple floors with glass.  Very interesting and reminiscent of angular swiss cheese.

I also came along what I think is a house or small apartment building.  You can gauge the scale of the building based on the car parked on street level.  This was also made of concrete, utilizing its small space very effectively, with great angles.  

This was the building right next to that one and I couldn't resist taking another picture.  Very interestingly done and a nice mixture of steel and concrete.  Notice the lack of people around these last couple of pictures.  This area had a very different feeling, while being equally as fashionable.

On the way home in the subway station, I came by this sign.  I have no idea what it says, but find it funny that the man in the picture is bowing.

Also taken on my way to the subway, I realized that the products showcasing what is available in the vending machines are actually only half of the actual bottle.  Very strange to see.  Did they cut these in half or where they manufactured specifically for this purpose?

Earthquake

Today was an exciting and interesting day for a different reason than what I would have expected.  There was an earthquake in northern Japan today and I felt the aftershock tremors here in Tokyo.  I was in my apartment and noticed my desk was moving back and forth.  I, at first, thought that it was related to something else.  Such as the air conditioner or construction being done nearby.  It was about two seconds after this that I realized what was going on because it felt like the whole building was moving.  I jumped up and ran to the doorway to stand underneath it.  I braced myself against the frame and waited for about a couple of minutes for things to calm down.  Once it was over, my heart was racing and I had to sit down for a bit.  This all might be a bit of an overreaction, but having never experienced anything like this and being in a foreign country was a unsettling at first.  Needless to say, I am fine here in Tokyo. 

On a lighter note, I realized looking through some pictures how often I've had someone else in the picture by accident, while taking a photograph of something else.  Looking at the one above, you can see the woman looking at me does not seem too happy to be in my photo.  I was originally taking a photo of the man on the far right because of what he was wearing.  

More Painting and Drawing

This is going to be a short post, as I haven't done a lot of sightseeing the past few days.  The weather was nice here, so I decided to take advantage and work some more on painting and drawing.  I started another new painting, but it is not in good shape right now, so I decided not to put up an image.  I did have a good, long session on the painting above.  Made some changes, but I still have a lot of work left.  And for reference, this painting is about 24" x 18" and is oil on canvas.

I also started this drawing a little while ago and just now feel I can show it.  This is actually just one part of the drawing, the rest of it needs more work before I show the rest of it.  The entire drawing that I am working on is about 3 1/2" x 18" and it is graphite on gesso panel.  The section show above is about a little less than half the panel.  I will be sure to put up some more images as the work progresses.

On another note, I do have some plans to break up my work sessions and get out to visit some more areas soon.  Specifically, Shibuya, which is very high on my list right now and you will see why when I put up some images and/or videos.

Miscellaneous Tokyo

I decided to use this post as an opportunity to put up a few images that were miscellaneous pictures that didn't make it onto any other posts.  The above picture is a very typical subway ride.  I've found that the Japanese have two primary activities while riding trains and subways- sleeping and texting on cellphones.  Everyone seems to be texting the second they step on to the subway.  All of their cellphones look very sleek and sophisticated.  And I even saw a teenager recently on a small, mini laptop-looking machine texting on that and his phone at the same time, while standing and riding the subway.

I have become increasingly interested in signs that I've seen doing day-to-day activities.  This is a sign on the street, announcing something for drivers- like stop or slow down.  I love it because I think it looks visually interesting, even though I have no idea what it says.

This is the sign for my subway stop by my apartment-  Bakuro-yokoyama, on the Toei Shinjuku Line.  I feel like I've gotten to know this subway stop so well, I can even go to where the platform is without paying attention to any signs.    

I just thought that this sign was funny.  It is saying not to run onto the train.  I saw another one like this in english, so I assume that is what it says in japanese.  This is another interesting tidbit I've come to notice, the japanese read top to bottom and right to left.  (Which is how this sign is organized) Also, the way they read their books is different than the west.  The front of their books would be equivalent to the back of ours, with the binding on the right.  They then open the book and read characters top to bottom and right to left.  I realized this after looking over the shoulder of a young man on a subway reading manga and the page numbers were going in that direction.  I then studied his eyes and the movement reflected the direction he was reading.

Just some more vending machines.  I actually haven't seen anything being sold, aside from cold drinks.  I'm not sure if this is changed and they put in hot drinks when the weather gets cold.  But I've read that they do sell hot drinks and hot soup from these.  I'll keep my eye out for them.

Shinjuku Train Station

While in Shinjuku again recently, I decided to shoot a video inside the train station.  This is the largely considered the busiest train station in the world, where roughly 3 million people pass through this station in a single day!  

What I shot was a tiny portion of the station and it is very much a cavernous, sprawling underground complex.  It is like this all the time and sometimes it gets even busier than this, which is hard to believe.  I think it's interesting to look at all the different people in this video- old and young, tall and short.  Plus, they all seem to be acting like this is a completely normal occurrence.

Imperial Palace, the Edo-Tokyo Museum and Shinjuku

Today was a busy, full day because I went to do a couple of different things.  I began my day with the intention of going to a museum that ended up being closed.  I continued on to the Imperial Palace and its gardens.  In lieu of the first museum, I threw in a trip to another museum that was open to make up for it.  And finally, I ended up back in Shinjuku to take some night pictures.  The above picture was taken walking into the Imperial Palace Gardens.

This is the Nijubashi bridge leading to the Imperial Palace itself.  The Edo Castle, formerly the Tokugawa family's residence, was later renamed the Imperial Palace.  

The Imperial Palace.  The current Emporer and his imperial family still occupy this residence.

  

The gardens around the Imperial Palace.  Very nice area, but interestingly surrounded by what feels like posh 5th Avenue, New York.  Such a dramatic contrast.

A lot of this area was closed to the public and was heavily guarded.  All of these pictures are representations of how close I could get.   

On to my substitute museum, the Edo-Tokyo Museum.  I was absolutely blown away by this museum.  It has so much to offer, all very well displayed.  I was a little skeptical prior to going in, as it really isn't prominently featured in any of the guidebooks.  But, it was a real treat with a model of the Nihombashi Bridge (the real current one taken a few days ago on my long walk) and a vast display of re-creations of Edo-period and Meiji-period Tokyo.

This was a small diorama of Edo-period Tokyo 'downtown'.

They even had full-scale representations of homes and dwellings from the Edo-period, with the interior completely full of examples of housewares.

This was by far my favorite part.  This is a representation of how a woodblock print is made.  You can see the steps that it went through to produce the final print on top.  The lower section is the actual woodblock and the color added is the one in the middle.  As you look down moving from right to left, you can see which color was added and in what place for each step of the process.  

And then they had a full historical Japanese outline of World War II.  This is an unexploded bomb shell.  I stress that it is only the shell, there was nothing else inside of it.

These following pictures are the end of the day getting dark in Shinjuku.  Ever since I came to Shinjuku a couple of days ago I've been wanting to come back, because I knew that it would be like this.

One Week

Hard to believe I've been here for a week.  It has gone by really fast, yet I can't believe all I've gotten accomplished.  The past two days I've been doing another major component to my trip- painting.  I've had 'the itch' the past couple of days and have been working on some drawings, but knew that I was needing to get some painting time in.  I normally don't show my work in such an unfinished state, but I wanted to still post what I've been up to recently.  All the work shown is very much a work in progress.

The above painting is actually done from the top floor of my apartment building.  There are open-air stairs, probably for a fire escape, and I was able to work 'outside' on the 11th floor.

  

This was done in my apartment from some photographs and drawings.

I did this on sight standing on a bridge over the Sumidagawa River.

Harajuku

Went to an area by the name of Harajuku yesterday.  It was a pretty interesting area for a number of reasons.  It was kind of like a Japanese version of Williamsburg, NY; although the above picture probably doesn't represent this very well.  It had a lot of very trendy boutiques and shops selling one-of-a-kind 'thrift store' style clothes and shoes.  Everyone walking around there was young, cool and uber-hip.  I felt a little stylishly out of my league.  The only reason I went was to go to the Ota Memorial Art Museum.  (which did not allow me to take pictures inside)  So, realizing I was in such a hip area, packed with people; I decided to soak it all in and see if some of it would rub off on me. 

There were a number of these small back alleys with no car traffic and everyone was walking around window shopping.  I stumbled on the Design Festa Gallery.  It was an alternative co-op style gallery.  Really just a re-habilitated building with rooms that acted as small gallery spaces.  Similar to P.S. 1 in New York, I suppose.

Interior of the gallery.

This was a pretty fascinating part of the day.  These are the 'Cosplay Gang'.  Named for their style of clothes, or costumes really.  They come out every Sunday and congregate on this bridge near the train station.  It is a real event, with a lot of people around taking pictures and the 'Gang' posing for them.  I'm not sure why they do this, as I looked in every guide book I had for an explanation.  I guess it just started and is now some tradition.  

Okay, last group picture- "Everyone smile!"

I literally turned 360 degrees from the 'Gang' and this is what I saw.  The gate to Yoyogi Park, which is made of huge cypress trees.   

The above gate leads you to this long pathway, which feels miles away from the trendy boutiques and the odd 'Cosplay Gang'.

Not sure what this is, but they look interesting.

Meiji-Jingu Shrine, built in memory of Emperor Meiji.

I walked in and saw this cute little girl being escorted around.  

I turned around and saw this procession of people walking around the corner.  This ended up being a traditional wedding procession.  Talk about timing.  If I had been 1 minute later, I would have missed this.  Really an incredible sight to see.

The happy couple.

On my way home from the subway, I saw this woman wearing a kimono with bags from shopping.  The whole day seemed like a bunch of contradictions, but everything really seemed to stem from the sentiment I mentioned in my last post about tradition.  

Tokyo

This post might seem a little too late, I intended to do this when I first arrived.  But, nevertheless I wanted to say a few things about Tokyo and Japanese culture.  Tokyo is comprised of 23 wards, each administratively a city in its own right, constituting the area considered the "city of Tokyo".  Collectively, these wards make up the largest city in the world, with a metropolitan population around 12 million.  (For reference, the New York City population is around 8 million) However, The Greater Tokyo Area, including Chiba, Kanagawa and Saitama, is the most populous metropolitan area in the world, with a population of over 35 million people.  It is absolutely astounding to wrap your brain around this, but hopefully these pictures will help illustrate the staggering size.  I truly had to catch my breath at the sight of this and what I shot was only a small section of the city.  I have to go back to a second observation deck to see the rest of the city sometime this week.  These were all shot from the 'North Tower Observation Deck' of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building.  They are either looking west or northwest.  There was a cafe perfectly placed in the way of the east facing windows, which is also what would truly be considered the 'city of Tokyo'.  What I shot is really the "outskirts". 

I also wanted to add in closing this post how absolutely amazing I've found this city and culture.  Each day has been a truly amazing experience for me and much of this has to do with the people who make up this incredible city.  I've never felt so welcomed into a place, because of the extreme hospitality by everyone that I've come into contact with.  Every day has shown me something new about the city and the people who make it what it is.  Along with this, I've been amazed at how revealing everything about the contemporary culture traces its roots back to old traditions.  Even something like the local 'manga' culture can trace its origins to Edo-era ukiyo-e (woodblock prints).  As much as I've been "trying to do it all" and check everything off my list; my favorite and most memorable experiences so far have been those that happened with no agenda.  Finding the unexpected funky shop to look through weird items for sale, stumbling on the tucked away shrine amongst the urban jungle, eating food on my plate without recognizing what it is or taking in breathtaking views; like the ones shown above.

Shinjuku

I recently went to an area called Shinjuku.  This is really considered the busiest area of Tokyo and it delivered.  I was in the area to the East of the main train station, which is packed with stores, restaurants, boutiques, neon flashing lights, huge video screens and a lot of people.

Shinjuku

Another short video of Shinjuku, just a few short blocks from where the first video was shot.  This entire area was like this and it was a pretty big section of Tokyo.  It really seemed to go on forever.

Shinjuku

Shinjuku pictures.  (Click on picture to make bigger and you can really get a sense of everything)

Sekaido Art Store

For those non-artists, I hope that this post isn't too boring.  But, I had to do it for those artists out there reading this (Scott).  This is Sekaido Art Store, the biggest and best art store I have ever been to in my entire life.  That says a lot, because I feel like I've been to some pretty incredible art stores. 

This store was a jam-packed, 7 full floors!  This was the 3rd floor, just oil painting supplies.  I could have blown my entire budget here easily.  But, I stayed on task with only what I needed.  However, I can't say I won't come back again and maybe pick up a few extra things.

The oil paint area.  This entire wall was covered with all the brands and colors one could imagine buying.  I couldn't even fit in the whole wall, it was so huge!

This is just the canvas and stretcher bar area.  All sizes and types of canvas you could ever need, including pre-primed canvas and linen.

Ueno Park & Tokyo National Museum

Riding the JR Yamanote Line, which circles the entire city in one loop.  I've heard so much about this rail line and was very excited to ride it.  It runs mostly above ground, so you can really get a feel for the city and the different make-up of each distinct area.  It connects to almost every subway line, but is considered a train rail line.  I rode it almost halfway around, just to get an idea of where things were.  This was a lot of fun for me, because I could look out at the landscape as we rode along. 

My destination, Ueno Park, which holds a large majority of Tokyo's art museums.

The park was very nice, clean and orderly.

So orderly, I had to take a picture of this walkway leading up to the museum.  Notice how everyone walks to the left (which is also the side they drive on) and no one crosses the line.

Tokyo National Museum, which holds an extensive collection of Japanese and Chinese art and artifacts.

One of my reasons for coming to Japan was to see the artwork of one of my recent heros, Ando Hiroshige.  A Japanese woodblock printmaker, Hiroshige created thousand of prints throughout his life.  None more famous and well known than his 100 Famous Views of Edo (Tokyo).  The print pictured is from his series 53 Stages of Tokaido Highway.  I love how the work has such a distinct movement going from bottom right corner to the middle left and back to the top right corner.

I also discovered this travel book by Japanese artist, Tani Buncho.  I love the line quality of the ink and the view overlooking the city.  

I had a great lunch, from a small restaurant.  There was a fairly large block of restaurants, all listed in Japanese.  After much trepidation about going in and not knowing what I would get, I stood outside trying to prepare myself to order something and was looking up words to say in my Japanese language book.  A nice waitress from one of the restaurants saw me looking at my book and walked out to invite me in.  I looked up the words for "table for one" and said this to her.  In response she smiled and led me inside.  Had she not come outside, welcoming me in, I probably would not have gone in.  

She sat me down at a small bar.  She, along with the cook, tried to explain what they had to offer; as they did not have an english menu.  They both said to me some words in Japanese that I did not understand and I started thinking that this wasn't going to work.  Then the cook said "pork".  I nodded my head, in response they said "spicy?".  I answered with an indecisive "hai", the Japanese for yes.  In response the cook showed me a sampling of the pork on a plate.  It looked good and I nodded my head and said "hai".  This picture is what they brought out.  One of the best meals I've had yet and it only cost 700 Japanese yen, about 6 US Dollars.  Not bad for steamed pork, (with spices and onions) rice, miso soup, potato cake, pickles and tea.  Not totally sure what the black stuff in the center bottom is, but I ate it anyway.  

Ginza

These images are all from an area by the name of Ginza, which is one of the couple of 'downtown' districts in Tokyo.  This one is very similar in feel to New York's 5th Avenue.  I walked from my apartment to Suitengu Shrine, then to Nihombashi/Chuo Dori (a famous Edo-style ancient bridge), then on to Ginza and back to my apartment.  The whole walk took me almost 3 hours, but it was great to experience the differences between areas from my apartment to Ginza on foot, as opposed to taking the subway.

Suitengu Shrine

Suitengu Shrine (Seven Deities of Good Luck)  This shrine, about a 10 minute walk from my apartment, is "noted for its divine grace, such as delivery of children, pregnancy and avoidance of flood damage."  I'm not really sure how those are connected to one another.  

This is the "purification area" before you walk into the shrine.  There is a small tub of "holy water" with ladles nearby.  This is where you are supposed to wash your hands with the ladle and then also wash out your mouth with the water, before spiting it on the ground.

Notice the contrast of the ancient feeling of the architecture of the shrine compared to what is in the background, essentially right across the street from one another.

I couldn't resist taking this picture.  Even though the man in the foreground is a little bit in the way, you can see a small group of people walking around in traditional kimonos.  I've seen this occasionally, but have been hesitant to take pictures of them.

Near Suitengu Shrine

On my walk from my apartment to an area by the name of Ginza, I shot this video across the street from Suitengu Shrine in Nihombashi.  I was trying my best to capture the chaos of a typical Tokyo block.  Don't ask me what this guy is screaming about, but I think he is trying to sell something.

Nihombashi

I moved into the apartment today from my ryokan.  The following two pictures are views of the street out near the apartment building.  First one looking North and the second looking South.  The area the apartment building is in is called Nihombashi, with the nearest subway stop directly across the street called Bakuro-yokoyama, on the Toei Shinjuku Line.

View of building outside front door.

Just to preface, this is a typical western-style Japanese apartment.  Nice, but very small.  A typical Japanese-style apartment would have tatami floors and low-level desk, with a futon bed.  Hallway inside front door, looking past "kitchen" into bedroom.

View of "kitchen", even though it is still technically the hallway.  Nothing resembling a dining room at all.  Definitely no dishwasher and only a two burner stove, with no real oven.  Across from this is the washer inside a tiny closet. 

One of the more interesting things is the bathroom.  The same spout that you use for the sink, you also use for the shower/bath.  There is a knob that you twist to distinguish between the two.  And you can't run both at the same time.  The seat on the toilet has a seat warmer function.

View inside bedroom.  Left side, with desk and TV just beyond.

View of bed with a small balcony with not much of a view.  But, lets in a little sun light and has a clothesline.

View of Sumidagawa River

Video of Komagata-bashi Bridge overlooking the Sumidagawa River.  This was mid-morning, so there weren't a lot of people out.  But you can see the immensity of the highway and volume of traffic towards the end of the video.    

Sumidagawa River

As I was out walking yesterday, I realized that I was close to the Sumidagawa River- which cuts through eastern Tokyo.  I meandered on to see what the view was like and was absolutely amazed by what I found.  For me, this is as exciting as it gets.  This view is looking West on the Komagata-bashi Bridge.

Looking North up the Sumidagawa River.

Yesterday I had to finalize arrangements for my apartment and went to the rental corporation office.  (Per many requests, I will post pictures of the apartment)  As I was walking in a neighborhood by the name of Gotanda, I saw this row of bikes and couldn't resist taking this picture.  I am an avid biker and appreciate how much I see the Japanese riding their bikes.  

One of the many interesting things about Japan are the strange signs all over the place.  Extreme sensory overload is commonplace and it is easily distracting to someone who is so visual.  On my way out yesterday I saw this sign on the sidewalk.  (Notice my foot for orientation.)   Later in the day I took the subway and saw a Japanese sign translated into English that said "This vehicle is to weaken an condition".  Unfortunately, I forgot my camera and don't ask what that means.

Asakusa

Asakusa, the area where I am currently staying, is a very popular tourist destination and still retains a rough-around-the-edges feel.  The buildings are a very old, low-level style of old Edo (currently Tokyo).  The center piece of Asakusa is Senso-ji Temple, about a 5 minute walk from my ryokan.  The above picture is Kaminarimon Gate, which is the entryway to the neighborhood and leads to the walkway up to the temple.      

Once passing through the above gate, there is a large promenade selling tourist wares, food and traditional Edo-style toys and trinkets.  During the day it is always packed with people walking to and from the temple.  

Senso-ji Temple

Five-Storied Pagoda

Kannon Do (Main Temple)

First Meal

My first meal in Tokyo last night was a bit of a surprise.  I went to a non-English-speaking restaurant, which was close by the ryokan.  After looking extensively through the translated english menu, I chose to go with 'Rice with salmon roe'.  I thought to myself, "I like salmon- this should be a safe bet."  This is what was brought out to me and the waitress explained through gestures what was on the bottom left, soy sauce and wasabi.  I couldn't help but looking at what was in the bowl, let alone be concerned with what to do with everything.  After a few seconds, I figured it out- salmon fish eggs on top of rice.  I have to admit, I am the pickiest eater in the world.  But, after some trepidation I dug in and thoroughly enjoyed my bowl of rice and fish eggs.  I-ta-da-ki-mas!  (Bon appetit)

The view inside the restaurant.  Because I was alone, I ate at the 'bar'.

The walk home, I stumbled on a well-lit outdoor market selling everything from tourist trinkets to women's handbags.

 

One of the many ubiquitous vending machines, selling anything from hot and cold drinks to full meals and t-shirts.

ALB to NRT - Day One

After a full 24 hours of travel from door to door, I finally arrived at Tokyo Narita International Airport.  Exhausted to say the least, but grateful to have made it in one piece.  Jet lag and culture shock have set in, yet my excitement of being here is keeping me going.  Taking the train from the airport to the city center.

Japanese businessmen commuting home from a day at work.

Outside the Ryokan (a traditional Japanese Inn) where I am staying for the first few days.  This is located in Asakusa, about 20 minutes Northeast from downtown Tokyo.